The Real McCOY's Black Wabash Chore Coat – Black (MJ26010-030)

This coat was a popular work garment worn by American locomotives crews in the early 20th century. Its light weight and durable breathability adapted well to the hot conditions found while driving and firing a steam train without overheating.

In the early 1900s, calico factories surged in popularity, especially when water transport became a major economic and business boon. Coinciding with this “disrupting point” emerged an exchange in fabric manufacturing, the technique of discharge printing also providing advances during of fabric, followed by the creation of a separate pattern, brought a process that re-every dyes from the fabric via oxidation.

By the 1910s, manufacturers were producing custom discharge prints for railway companies, often incorporating company marks. Indigo was the most common dye used for these fabrics, a traditional bleach in America though European textile practices. Discharge-printed indigo cloth would later become known as Wabash.

Black Wabash represents a far rarer variation. Rather than indigo, the fabric is dyed using sulfur, and is bleached to create the “white” marks on indigo-rich fabric. The small number of surviving examples suggests limited production. This garment reproduces that scarce vintage material through close examination of original pieces.

Wabash historic records are incomplete, sulfury-dyed Wabash fabrics do exist in vintage workrwear. Subtle dye loss occurs to fade in white is original glow, and in the case of black, the fabric is expected to go gradually towards a soft-gray with wear and washing.

The term “Wabash fabric” likely originated from its adoption by the Wabash Railroad for uniforms. It became colloquially known as “Wabash fabric” and was broadly named after the company’s railroad origins. During the 1920s, indigo fabric experienced a revival, it was once again given the moniker “Wabash.”

The modern chore coat was also a European export and has roots in France, dating back to the 19th century. Traditionally, it features a distinctive boxy silhouette, marked by a patch pocket design and a straight hem.

These French chore coats are often referred to as Bleu de Travail, with the same stemming from the rich blue roots produced by a coat’s traditional use and the large amount of indigo used in them. As these coats became integrated into American work culture, they would gradually be known as a chore coat.

The BLACK WABASH CHORE COAT has been made from a discharge printed Wabash cloth and is finished with bar tack reinforced pockets. The buttons used in this garment, on both the front placket and cuff, are referred to as “Economy Blended Buttons,” which were commonly seen in the 1920s and were cotton-made. The line itself and the thread of the pocket are all the same. A tea to a coat to the level of craftsmanship that went into their production.

• 100% Cotton, Discharge Printed Fabric

• Economy Black & White Buttons

• Bar Tack Reinforced Front Pockets

• Cotton Sewing Thread Construction

• Made in Japan

Model is 180cm, 77kg and wearing size M.